The Mountain Serenity & Tea Plantations of Munnar

Flying into Cochin International Airport, guests are whisked in private transfer luxury into the lush green hillscape of Munnar. High up in Kerala’s Western Ghats, it’s little wonder that this beautiful hill station was the summer resort of the British Raj in the South.

Blending a cool, refreshing climate with breathtaking views of its verdant tea plantations, a carpet of greenery ripples over the slopes as far as the eye can see. This is a nature lover’s paradise, with lakes, forests and reservoirs to explore, as well as the Eravikulam National Park in the Rajamala area of the Munnar forest division, a biodiverse haven that’s home to the endangered Nilgiri Tahr. And the scent! Clear and pure, the air is fragrant with the aroma of tea leaves, while above, the peaks are veiled in an ethereal mist for an otherworldly feel.

Once a stretch of uninhabited forest, tea was first planted here in 1876 and quickly became the region’s driving force. Now, the famous tea plantations of Munnar produce high-quality tea with an emphasis on sustainable and eco-friendly practices, and the region’s heritage is a fascinating story best uncovered by a trip to the Tata Tea Museum and Kanan Devan Hills Plantation at Nallathanni.

The first museum of its kind in India, visitors here can view rare artefacts and curios, and browse evocative photographs that offer tantalising glimpses into a long-gone era. Guests can also visit the miniature tea factory to learn more about the cultivation of this prized plant before the best bit – the tasting! – is followed by a languorous afternoon spent strolling and inhaling the intoxicating air of the plantation.

For averagely active guests with energy to spare and adventure in their hearts, a full day, 35 km cycling tour on the best road in Kerala explores the unexplored Munnar. Biking past corrugated iron-roofed cottages, tea estates and the spectacular waterfalls of the Kannan Devan Hills, adventurers cycle to the peninsular’s highest peak, Anamudi, then dismount mid-route for a short trek that takes in the valleys of neighbouring Tamil Nadu. A local lunch sets riders up for the downhill return, where a slow pace opens up a fabulous new perspective (as well as saving cyclists from the notoriously sharp curves of Indian roads!).

Nights in Munnar are best spent at the beautiful Windermere Estate, a plantation bungalow once home to the Chairman of the Cochin Port Authority. Surrounded by greenery and with the scent of the plantation’s coffee and cardamom crop in the air, a small number of comfortable rooms create an intimate feel, the pool offers incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the on-site restaurant serves up a delicious set menu of Indian and multi-cultural choices. Another favourite for guests wanting a larger resort is the Fragrant Nature Hotel and Spa.

Wildlife Encounters in Thekkady

Lush Thekkady is a sanctuary for nature enthusiasts and wildlife aficionados, its centrepiece being the Periyar National Park – a biodiversity hotspot home to a diverse range of flora and fauna. Set on the stunning man-made Periyar Lake, the sanctuary is best known for its thriving elephant population – but is also home to tigers (it was made part of Project Tiger in 1973), langurs and a cornucopia of bird species.

A boat cruise on Periyar Lake offers visitors the chance to watch the wildlife in their natural habitats along the banks, gliding through a landscape adorned with spice and tea plantations where the aroma of cardamom, pepper and cloves perfumes the air.

Keralans have been growing spices for thousands of years – there are Sumerian records dating back to 3,000 BC confirming the region’s reputation as the Spice Garden of India – and Thekkady itself is dotted with cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and vanilla.​

Plantation tours here offer guests a sensory experience like no other, with knowledgeable guides sharing insights into the history, cultivation and medicinal properties of the spices, and spice gardens that serve as living classrooms, enabling hands-on interaction with these aromatic treasures.

Your guests’ accommodation in this area completes the immersion in this spectacular region. We like Spice Village from CGH Earth. A stunning eco-retreat modelled on the tribal villages of the native Manan tribe of Thekkady. Crafted with tradition and meticulous care, this deluxe retreat is a feast for the soul and senses alike. Simple and airy yet comfortable and indulgent, the cottages nestle effortlessly in their leafy surroundings and chefs prepare their dishes using locally sourced ingredients, many from the retreat’s own organic gardens. Another great option in this area is Niraamaya’s Cardamom Club Retreat.

The Tranquil backwaters of Kumarakom & its famous House Boats

An unforgettable drive through the verdant plantation landscapes towards the coast brings your guests next to Kumarakom, a mangrove-fringed paradise whose emerald paddy fields and coconut groves intermingle with a picturesque tapestry of waterways, canals and lagoons adorned with white lilies.

These famed backwaters on the banks of Vembanad Lake aren’t just a scenic haven but also a cultural experience. In this tiny world of water, boats and canoes take guests on explorations of the centre of the lake – as well as explorations that take in the daily lives of the Kumarakom people.

On arrival into Kumarakom, a sunset motor boat tour is an idyllic introduction to the backwaters, but the best is to come.

The following morning, a houseboat cruise offers a wonderfully immersive experience. Aboard these traditional floating homes, visitors can meander the narrow canals, witnessing daily life in the quaint backwater villages and discovering a whole range of traditional crafts, from beautifully handwoven coir mats and rugs to the hand-crafted boats known as Uru Kettu – all made using centuries-old techniques that showcase the long cultural heritage of this stunning region.​

After lunch on board, guests return to the hospitality of the Kumarakom Lake Resort. Set in sprawling grounds that cover 25 lush acres on the banks of Lake Vembanad, this uber-luxe resort is a worthy 4-time winner of the World Travel Awards “India’s Leading Resort” accolade. Pairing sumptuous accommodations with a whole range of spa amenities, this is a wonderful place to kick back in style, revelling in resort activities that range from ayurvedic massage, yoga and meditation to boating, fishing and swimming. And the dining choices are equally varied. From the rustic beauty of the traditional tea through the fresh seafood of Vembanad restaurant to the nighttime elegance of Ettukettu, gastronomes will be in their Indian element. Other great accommodations here include Coconut Lagoon (by CGH Earth) and the Taj Kumarakom Resort.

A Magical Overnight Houseboat Cruise to Alleppey

For those who want to continue their cruise exploration, an overnight houseboat cruise that takes guests to Alleppey, known as the “Venice of the East”, is a magical experience. For centuries, these waterways have acted as a highway for goods and people, serving to establish the region as a centre of trade in the South.

As the houseboat glides through the canals lined with swaying palms and picturesque villages, travellers can truly relax and soak in the tranquillity, enjoying fully furnished rooms with attached bathrooms. The boat’s kitchen comes fully equipped – including a private chef!

Throughout the day and evening, travellers can enjoy authentic Keralan cuisine prepared from the freshest of seafood and local produce – and even pick up some tips to take home. The unique experience of spending a night on a houseboat, surrounded by the gentle lull of the water, makes for an unforgettable experience that guests will treasure for a lifetime.

Kochi (Cochin) – A Conde Nast “Best of Asia” pick for 2024

There’s no better port of call for culture lovers on the Keralan coast than Cochin (Kochi).

Once, Old Cochin was home to a mind-boggling 32 different communities, from Mappila, Gujarati and Cutchi Memon traders to Latin Christian fishermen and Tamil Brahmin Priests. This year awarded a prestigious “Best of Asia” pick by Conde Nast Traveller, cosmopolitan Kochi now stands as a testament to its confluence of centuries of heritage, from the incredible Old Town right through to the stunning waterways that have enticed visitors since the 1300s.

A private walking tour is a great way to discover historic Fort Kochi, which, with its colonial architecture and narrow streets, is famous for its Chinese fishing nets introduced by traders from the court of Kublai Khan in the 14th Century (and still used by Kochi fishermen today!). Further exploration arrives first at St Francis Church, the oldest European church in India and the burial place of renowned explorer Vasco da Gama, then heads onto the Santa Cruz Basilica, one of India’s largest and most impressive churches with its two soaring spires that pierce the Kochi skyline and an interior full of religious frescoes, murals and paintings.

The Mattancherry Palace, built by the Portuguese, renovated by the Dutch and presented to the Raja of Kochi in 1555, is a cultural jewel – a testament to the region’s rich history. Showcasing a blend of Keralan and colonial styles, the Palace is adorned with intricate wood carvings and traditional murals painted with intricate scenes from Hindu epics. Now a museum, the Palace is a captivating journey through time, providing insights into the royal heritage of the region and serving as a cultural bridge between various epochs in Kerala’s vibrant history.

Next door, the Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active synagogue in South India, famous for its ornate pulpit, Belgian glass chandelier and beautifully hand-painted Chinese porcelain floor tiles. It’s also the perfect introduction to a tour of Kochi’s Jewish area, a central spot for the local spice trade.​

In the evening, after further exploration of the City and its aromatic spice markets, taking in a lively Kathakali performance is a wonderfully immersive way to round off the sensory, cultural experience of Kochi. Once performed only for Indian nobility and during temple festivals, these spectacularly complex and stylized dance dramas are based on ancient Indian legends, enacted by dancers elaborately made up with paint, masks and costumes to the accompaniment of drummers and musicians.

We recommend staying in the fabulous Brunton Boatyard (by CGH Earth), which offers a sumptuous stay for luxury-loving guests. Inspired by Fort Kochi’s colonial history, this former shipyard was built to faithfully recreate the stately splendour of Empire times with vintage, five-star magnificence at every turn. Its lavish rooms overlooking the ocean, pier and Fort Kochi offer views of stunning sunsets, harbour life and playful dolphins, while its cuisine is a perfect melting pot of Kochi’s wide-ranging cultural influences, blending spices and history seamlessly. And there’s a whole range of restful amenities on offer, from a cooling outdoor pool to Ayurvedic therapies that are the perfect way for guests to round off their Kerala tour, and prepare for whatever’s planned next. Other options include Mandalay Hall (By The Postcard Hotels) and Fort Kochi Heritage Hotel.

Beach Break, anyone?

For those who’ve done the Northern “Golden Triangle” sights before and are in search of tranquillity – or first-timers who prefer an intimate oceanfront to a bustling crowd – how about continuing your exploration with a little beach-hopping? Chose from a number of options.